Fermentation lies at the heart of Russian cuisine as one of the most ancient techniques of preparing food. As you will notice throughout this book, numerous recipes rely on sauerkrauts, kvass, or rassol (the fermentation liquid) for their distinct tangy flavor. This soup, which carries the name rassol in its very title, is the embodiment of such a tradition. While historically rassolnik is an old Russian dish, the go-to recipe in our family comes from Poland. Back in the 1970s, my mom took part in a school program that allowed Soviet kids to find pen pals in neighboring socialist countries. She hit the jackpot, since she was linked up with a boy in Poland (the most coveted country of all friendly socialist ones). After a few years of correspondence, my mom and her parents were invited—and most importantly permitted by the Soviet officials—to visit her pen pal. Along with a bag full of trendy garments, chewing gum, and fancy stationery, which made her the coolest teenager in school, she brought back this recipe for a good old Russian rassolnik, cooked by her Polish friend’s mom. The delicious soup always reminds me of the interwoven nature of the Soviet and Slavic histories and cuisines.
Recipe provided by chef Hugo Ortega of Hugo's, Caracol Restaurant, and Backstreet Cafe. Good for any time of year, but especially satisfying when you've got a lot of leftover Thanksgiving turkey but you're tired of turkey sandwiches.
Pretty sure I’m going to develop a scented candle based on how good this soup smells while it’s cooking. I actually wanted to create a whole line of delicious savory-smelling candles, but my dog talked me out of it. She says that would mess with her head.
STRAINED LENTIL SOUP | SUÅNZME MERCİMEK CORBASI
Region: Eskişehir, all regions
FESTIVE MEATBALL AND CHICKPEA STEW | TIKLİYE
Region: Şanlıurfa, Southeastern Anatolia
Recipe provided by chef Kwame Onwuachi of Kith and Kin in Washington, D.C. Francis Lam talks with Onwuachi about the dish and many more topics in their inteview from our episode "Kwame Onwuachi - Notes from a Young Black Chef."
This is what I make when I feel like eating something green and vibrant, but the green tide of spring hasn’t yet arrived. I use frozen peas and fava beans. (I double-pod mine, which I know takes ages, so there is no need to if you are in a hurry. To double-pod the frozen ones you’ll need to leave them in a bowl of boiling water for a few minutes before you can pop them out of their little pods.)
Persian Spicy Fish and Herb Stew | Ghalieh Mahi
This comforting soup is wonderfully creamy, with warm and satisfying hits from coriander, cumin and, most importantly, fresh turmeric. When in season, fresh turmeric is available from many supermarkets and Indian grocery stores, and you may well be able to find it online. You could use ground turmeric for this recipe if you can’t find fresh, but bear in mind its flavour is more powerful than that of fresh. The lentils and chicken work very well together, but if you prefer you can make a vegetarian version by omitting the chicken and doubling the quantity of lentils. And, as a change from soup, you could try this dish with rice and a dollop of yogurt on top.
Don’t you just love how soup chases away chills, soothes the soul, nurtures the appetite and leaves you feeling warm and loved all over? I do! This soup won’t blow you away with robust flavours; it’s far more subtle than that and I think that is its overall charm.