I’d tried lobster and fish pho at Vietnamese restaurants in the United States and was surprised (and somewhat aghast) that they simply cooked the seafood in beef pho broth. The lesson learned from those experiences was this: seafood pairs well with pho spices.
This poke is a riff on the particularly irresistible li hing–dusted pineapple, swapping out the li hing with the more widely available Japanese plum paste umeboshi, and adding a touch of heat with shichimi togarashi, a citrusy chili spice blend.
This takeoff on a grilled Caesar salad replaces romaine with two colors of chicory lettuce—pale Belgian endive and scarlet radicchio. Both of these leaves are far more bitter than romaine, elevating the contrapuntal between vegetable, dressing, cheese, and salt.