The haunting scent of allspice balanced with bright lemon juice and flecks of nuts make these Middle Eastern kofta (meat patties) hard to resist. This recipe is Sally’s savior as she lives with a major carnivore (exactly the opposite of how she likes to eat). She uses 80% to 85% ground chuck, but because there is so much flavor here, you can use leaner meat and still have no fear of cooking them to well done as recommended. Serve them with simple brown jasmine rice or the Golden Rice Salad, and a spoonful of Cucumber Yogurt Salad.
Cook to Cook: It’s hard to judge the spicing of raw ground meat as you should never taste it raw. Instead, make a trial patty, cook it up, taste (the perk of being the cook), and adjust the seasoning as needed.
Can be made and stored in the refrigerator until ready to grill. Makes delicious leftovers.
Accompaniment: Cucumber Yogurt Salad
1. Make the kofta: Place all the ingredients except the salad in a large bowl and knead with your hands until well combined. Firmly form the mixture with your hands into 2-inch, slightly flattened patties and set aside. (They need to be firmly formed or they will break apart when you cook them.) You can make the kofta ahead at this point and store loosely covered in the refrigerator overnight.
2. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking. If using a gas grill, set one burner on high and one burner on low.
3. When the coals are at medium heat, generously oil the grill. Place the kofta on the grill, taking care not to crowd them, cooking them in batches if necessary. Let them cook thoroughly on one side before flipping them and cooking the other. It is important not to move them around too much so they don’t break apart. Pull them from the grill when there is no pink interior and their centers have reached 160°F on an instant-reading thermometer.
From A Summertime Grilling Guide by Lynne Rossetto Kasper and Sally Swift. Copyright © 2012 by American Public Media.
What do the fermented meat condiments of fifth-century China and the foam, scents and smoke used in molecular gastronomy today have in common? They are all sauces. Maryann Tebben, head of the Center for Food Studies at Bard College at Simon's Rock and author of Sauces, explains.