This is summer finger food — a big pile of shrimp that you peel and eat with your fingers only needs lots of napkins. Shrimp stay juicier when grilled in their shells, and the short marinating time heightens their character. Serve them hot, warm, or lightly chilled with Cucumber Stick Salad.
For the marinade, you want the dark, fragrant, Asian sesame oil that is used as a flavoring, not the lighter one that is used for sautéing and for things like salad dressings.
1. Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large bowl. Add the shrimp and gently toss to coat with the seasonings. Refrigerate 30 to 40 minutes.
2. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking. If using a gas grill, set one burner on high and one burner on low.
3. Brush the grate with oil and place the shrimp on their sides, about an inch apart, over the hottest part of the fire. Quickly brush them with any remaining marinade then count to 30. Turn them right away with tongs and move them away from the highest heat.
4. Finish cooking the shrimp until they turn pink and are barely firm, about 3 minutes. Do not overcook. Immediately remove to a platter and scatter with the scallions.
From A Summertime Grilling Guide by Lynne Rossetto Kasper and Sally Swift. Copyright © 2012 by American Public Media.
Andy Ricker, author of Pok Pok, says each of Thailand's regions has distinct culinary traditions.