Steve Jenkins, author of Steve Jenkins' Cheese Primer and cheesemonger at New York City's Fairway Markets, feels that cheeses from the Pyrenees Mountain region between France and Spain are vastly underrated. He urges us to get acquainted with them. Always made from sheep's milk, they are rustic and memorable. Here are some to try:

    • Ossau-Iraty: From the Pays Basque, BĂ©arn and parts of the Bigorre regions of France, these are some of the world's oldest cheeses.
    • Roncal: From Spain's Navarre, this cheese has been made in Spain for nearly 3,000 years.
  • Idiazabal: From Spain's Basque Country and Navarre, this cheese is vastly undersung.
Steven Jenkins

Steven Jenkins is vice president of Fairway Group Services at Fairway market. He is the author of the books Cheese Primer, which won a James Beard award, and The Food Life. His writing has appeared in numerous food publications.