While the large Champagne houses buy their grapes from others, there's a contingent of small winemakers who make Champagne from the grapes they grow themselves. For holiday sipping, Josh Wesson likes these "grower Champagnes:"

Chartagne - Taillet Fiacre: when you want to go for the gold this is the one to pick. It's an unforgettable Champagne. About $45.

Dumont Brut Non-Vintage: tastes like white Burgundy with bubbles. About $27 to $30.

J. Michel Blanc de Blanc 1998: a gossamer cloud of bubbles. Like drinking stars. About $35.