Cookies don't get simpler or more satisfying than sablés, the basic butter cookie of France. They are homey, simple cookies that are sometimes flavored not at all (the better to show off their wholesome all-butter goodness) and sometimes given a spot of flavor, subtle or bold. At old-fashioned Pâtisserie Lerch, M. Lerch, whose affection for cookies is evident, generously flavors his sables with lemon zest and coats their edges with sugar so they emerge from the oven with a touch of sparkle.
Simplicity and lightness define these sunny little treats, which are easy to make and even easier to eat, especially with chilled, homemade lemonade or hot tea or coffee. They are inspired by the Easter Week Yoemem, or Yaqui, in "the House of the Sun."
Its tender, golden crumb makes this cake a good foundation for a sort of unstructured strawberry shortcake.