Caponata is the great room-temperature mix of eggplant and other vegetables that is sometimes called an Italian ratatouille. But it differs greatly from its French cousin in one chief way; it is a member of an ancient classification of dishes called agro dolce -- those made with sweet-and-sour flavoring. Though most Americans are familiar only with the caponata marketed by Progresso in small cans, there are many versions of the caponata in Italy. Most are from Sicily ... and my favorites of all are from Pantelleria, the great caper-growing island off the west coast of Sicily. So it's no surprise that this recipe has a healthy dose of capers in it! It's a wonderful appetizer, served with crusty bread and, perhaps, other antipasto items.
1. Roast eggplant whole in 325-degree oven. Remove when tender, about 30 minutes. Cut into big chunks (with skin) and salt lightly.
2. While the eggplant is cooking, soak the sliced onions in a large bowl of cold water to cover for 30 minutes. Drain the onions and dry on kitchen towels.
3. Heat 1/4 cup of olive oil in a large skillet with a lid over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onions and cook, stirring, for 10 minutes, until very soft but not browned. Add the tomatoes (squeezing), olives, capers, pine nuts, and raisins. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Simmer, covered, for 5 minutes.
4. Heat the remaining 1/2 cup of olive oil in another large skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Add the celery to the skillet, along with the tomato mixture. Stir in the vinegar and the sugar, and cook for 2 minutes to evaporate the vinegar. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Bring to room temperature.
5. When ready to serve, place on a platter and garnish with the parsley.
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David Rosengarten is a food writer, cookbook author and cooking teacher. He is the editor-in-chief of The Rosengarten Report, a James Beard award-winning newsletter. He is the author of several cookbooks, including It's All American Food, which won a James Beard award for Best American Cookbook. He has hosted or co-hosted more than 2,000 television shows, including "Taste," which won a James Beard award for Best National TV Cooking Show. Previously he served as a contributing editor for Gourmet.