Moutarde de Meaux: A mustard for the ages

I want to bring back a golden oldie. In the days when everybody was first discovering that there was food on the other side of the Atlantic, there was a coarse, delicious mustard that people called Dijon (but it wasn't from Dijon), and it became very popular. It came in this gorgeous stone crock and it was called Moutarde de Meaux. (This is the same part of France that the famous Brie comes from.)

Then it fell out of favor. Recently I saw it on Amazon, and I could not resist. Brace yourself: It's expensive, but a little goes a long way.

This is one of the great mustards of the world. It's mild -- you can eat it with a spoon -- but it has flavor. It's coarse-ground; it's kind of loose. It makes the honey mustards and the chipotle mustards look like bad imitations.

One thing to remember about mustard -- I learned this from a mustard maker in Belgium -- is if you keep it cold, it will stay hot. Always chill mustard.

Moutarde de Meaux is a beautiful mustard. It's a mustard you stir into cream when you're cooking chicken. It's a mustard that you spread on really nice ham. It's a mustard that you toss with green beans, potatoes and a little olive oil.

This is a mustard for the ages.

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