When I lived in Morocco, I ate a lot of roasted peppers from the stalls at night markets. Often there were small grilled or cured fish to accompany the peppers. And, of course, gallons of mint tea. These flavors bring me right back to that delicious and cacophonous setting. In this dish, I bring all those elements together, perfect for entertaining. More often than not, I serve this with anchovies, using a whole 2-ounce can, the oil drizzled over top, the fillets cut into long thin strips. Salt-cured sardines work equally well.
Andrew entertains more than I do, so his recipe for peppers and tinned fish serves 8 to my 4. This recipe is easily doubled if you too have a larger crowd.
Extremely charred broccoli makes for such a great salad. I dream of the burnt broccoli salad from Superiority Burger in the East Village. Brooks Headley, the chef, is really a vegetable wizard; he always comes up with the most brilliant combinations that are so unique, and just work so well. Nothing could be more perfect than that salad, but this plays with some of the sweet, spicy, salty, charred flavors that I love so much about that dish.
Throughout the Caribbean and American South, African slaves transformed the tails of oxen or other cattle, the discards of wealthy plantation owners, into a delicacy by slow-braising them in rich, fragrant stews. In Haiti, oxtail is served with pikliz, an intense peppery and sour slaw tart enough to make your jaws clench, similar in taste and texture to the Southern condiment chow chow. Pikliz is most often made with green cabbage, but I use red cabbage, which is prettier and slightly sweeter, and brussels sprouts, which have a hint of nuttiness. Serve with your favorite white rice.
Carrots, avocado, and sprouts may sound too standard to deserve your attention, but I assure you, this salad satisfies. It’s really the dukkah that does the trick— bright, spicy, salty, and a little sweet—it gives this salad a complex, savory depth.
For a more assertive, slightly spicy alternative to traditional basil pesto, we first processed almonds (toasted first to enhance their rich flavor) with lots of garlic, anchovies, and a serrano chile until the mixture was finely chopped. Then we processed the mixture in a food processor with peppery arugula, lemon juice, and olive oil until the sauce was smooth.
Keralan Fried Chicken, Lowcountry Cardamom Waffles, and Spicy Maple Syrup
"There are so many people in the world, there must be someone just like me who feels bizarre and flawed in the same ways I do." -Frida Kahlo