Josh Wesson says high acid wines with great depth of flavor are the ones to pour when rich, oily fish such as salmon, mackerel or bluefish is on the menu. Look for these examples:

Hirsch-Gruner Vertliner: The most widely planted grape in Austria, the newest darling of the wine world. The wonderful Granny Smith apple flavors pair well with rich mackerel. About $15.

Philippe Portier Sauvignon Blanc: Look to France's Loire Valley for this and other Sauvignon Blancs.

Giesen: A light-hearted sip with pear-like flavors from New Zealand. About $12.