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Cheese monger Steve Jenkins has introduced us to many fine cheeses over the years, but we wondered which ones are his absolute favorites, his "cheeses of a lifetime." Here are his picks. All are lush, gooey, soft-rind cheeses.

  • Saint-Florentin: A raw cow's milk cheese from Burgundy. The one-pound drums have a washed rind and are creamy and rich.
  • Saint-Marcellin: From France's Dauphiné region, north of Provence. The 3-ounce disk of cow's milk cheese is best after a few weeks of ripening when the flavor becomes fruity and nutty.
  • Perail: A little disk of sheep's milk cheese that the Roquefort makers make for themselves.