Lynne spoke with Dorie Greenspan, author of the "Tools of the Trade" column in Bon Appétit magazine, to find out what's worth having when it comes to pepper mills. Like Lynne, Dorie loves the classic wooden hourglass-shaped Peugeot (hers is more than 30 years old).

She's also been smitten by a gaily colored plastic mill that resembles a beach ball with rabbit ears. It's made by Chef'n and available in some supermarkets for about $15. You can operate it with one hand simply by squeezing the mill by the ears.

But the one Dorie lusted after was a Middle Eastern brass coffee-grinder-style mill that she saw in the kitchen of New York's Café Boulud. This expensive-but-beautiful mill is made in Greece for Pepper Mill Imports and is available in most cookware stores.

Look for Dorie's article on pepper mills in the February 2000 issue of Bon Appetit.