Professional taster David Rosengarten is excited about luxury canned tuna. This is not tuna for your everyday sandwich. This stuff is in a league with foie gras and caviar.

David says canned tuna of this caliber can be divided into three categories: ventresca tuna; premium tuna packed in olive oil; and premium tuna packed in its own juices. Here are his top picks in each category:

Ventresca Tuna: This tuna comes from the belly of the fish, that velvety chunk known in sushi bars as toro. It has deep, buttery, complex flavors and a creamy texture. This one stands alone. The less you do to it the better. Be prepared to pay dearly for this unabashed luxury—tins or jars can range from around $5 to a breathtaking $32!

Tre Torri Ventresca Di Tonno
$32 for a 10.8-ounce can
Tre Torri Tarantello Di Tonno
$32 for a 10.8-ounce can
Available from:
Esperya
718-860-2949
www.esperya.com

Buon Italia Ventresca Di Tonno, Tuna Belly in Pure Olive Oil
$9.95 for a 10.5-ounce jar
Available from:
Buon Italia
75 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY 10011
212-633-9090
www.buonitalia.com

Albo Filetes De Atun Blanco, Ventresca
$8.39 for a 4-1/6-ounce can
Available from:
Surfa's Restaurant Supply and Gourmet Food
8825 National Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232
310-559-4770
www.surfasonline.com

Premium Tuna Packed in Olive Oil: Most of the upscale tuna in stores is in this category. It's been the tuna staple of Europe for many generations, and is what you'll most likely find on tables there for tapas, antipasto, hors d'oeuvres, or mezes. Darker and more reddish that our supermarket solid white tuna.

Ortiz Bonito Del Norte
$6.99 for a 7.76-ounce jar
Available from:
www.chefshop.com
www.zingermans.com
Citarella
2135 Broadway
New York, NY 10023
212-874-0383
www.citarella.com

Papa George Gourmet Albacore in Olive Oil
$7.49 for a 6-ounce can
Available from:
www.chefshop.com

Buon Italia Solid Tuna in Pure Olive Oil
$4.95 for a 6-3/4-ounce jar
Available from:
Buon Italia
75 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY 10011
212-633-9090
www.buonitalia.com

Premium Tuna Packed in Its Own Juices: A new kind of premium tuna from the Pacific Northwest that's clean-tasting, fresh, mild, and less oily. When mixed with lots of mayo, David thinks this makes the best-textured tuna salad.

Great American Smokehouse and Seafood Company Deluxe Albacore Tuna
$4.95 for a 7.5-ounce can
Available from:
Great American Smokehouse and Seafood Co.
15657 Highway 101 South
Brookings, OR 97415
541-469-6903, 800-828-3474
www.smokehouse-salmon.com

Dave's Home-Style Santa Cruz Albacore Fillets
$5.95 for a 7.5-ounce jar
Available from:
Dave's Gourmet Albacore (a store)
310A Coral Street
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
831-457-2250, 888-454-8862
www.davesalbacore.com

Katy's Smokehouse Very Fancy Hand-Packed Albacore Prime Solid White Tuna
$4.99 for a 7.5-ounce can
Available from:
740 Edwards Street
P. O. Box 621
Trinidad, CA 95570
707-677-0151
www.katyssmokehouse.com