
Everything I know about Indian cooking could fit on a strand of saffron. So I was thrilled when Niloufer Ichaporia King came to work with us at Chez Panisse, guiding us through the preparation of several traditional Parsi New Year’s feasts. It was the first time that I’d tasted such authentic and wonderfully aromatic Indian food.
When I had finally made plans to visit India, COVID-19 hit, and my travel plans got sidelined, along with everyone else in the world. So until I can get there, I have to be content with Indian food at restaurants adjacent to the Gare du Nord in Paris, where many Indian and Sri Lankan épiceries (food shops) and restaurants are located.
My favorite dish that Niloufer gave us a recipe for was a cake enrobed in a sheet of gold leaf, a stunning touch that lent the dessert a splendor worthy of a Bollywood musical.
This is my version of that cake, but I left out the gold, since it’s not something you’re likely to have on hand. I did, however, brighten up the batter with vibrant green pistachios, which are more easily found in grocery stores than sheets of gold leaf and, honestly, more delicious to eat.
Makes one 9-inch (23cm) cake; 10 to 12 servings
INGREDIENTS
Ready for Dessert: My Best Recipes
David Lebovitz
For the topping:
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted or salted butter
1 teaspoon sugar
¾ cup (60g) sliced almonds
For the cake:
¾ cup (95g) shelled unsalted pistachios
¼ cup (35g) plus ¾ cup (110g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons cardamom seeds
8 tablespoons (4 ounces/115g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup (200g) sugar
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free
Pinch of salt
DIRECTIONS
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
To make the topping, put the 2 tablespoons butter in a 9-inch (23cm) round cake pan (not a springform pan). Set the pan directly on the stovetop over low heat until the butter melts. Remove from the heat and let cool briefly. Sprinkle the 1 teaspoon sugar evenly over the melted butter, then add the almonds, tilting and shaking the pan to distribute them evenly. Set the pan aside. (If using an electric or induction stove that a cake pan won’t work on, you can make the topping in a saucepan and scrape it into the cake pan.)
To make the cake, in a blender or a food processor fitted with the metal blade, pulverize the pistachios with the ¼ cup (35g) flour until it’s as finely ground as possible. Transfer to a small bowl.
Crush the cardamom seeds in a mortar and pestle or seal them in a sturdy plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin. Add the crushed seeds to the pistachio mixture and stir to combine. Set aside.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or by hand), beat together the 8 tablespoons (115g) butter and 1 cup (200g) sugar on medium speed until very light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until completely incorporated.
In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining ¾ cup (110g) flour, the baking powder, and salt and stir it into the butter-egg mixture. Stir in the pistachio mixture just until combined.
Spoon the batter into the prepared pan by dropping four or five mounds on top of the almonds. Carefully spread the batter into an even layer, trying not to disturb the almonds. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes.
Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Invert the cake onto a serving plate. Let cool completely.
Serving: Although terrific on its own, this cake goes well with a fruit compote or a scoop of Passion fruit–tangerine sorbet (page 197, Ready for Dessert).
Storage: This cake will keep for up to 4 days, well wrapped, at room temperature. It can be frozen for up to 1 month.
Accompaniment
This cake is lovely served with apricots poached in Sauternes.
Bring 1½ cups (375ml) water and ¾ cup (150g) sugar to a boil in a medium saucepan.
Add half a vanilla bean, split lengthwise, and ¾ cup (180ml) Sauternes (or another dry or sweet white wine). Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer.
Halve and pit 8 fresh apricots. Add the apricot halves to the pan and poach until softened, about 10 minutes. You can also use 8 ounces (225g) dried apricots, poaching them until tender, 30 to 45 minutes.
Before serving, remove the vanilla pod (it can be rinsed, dried, and used for another purpose).
Reprinted with permission from Ready for Dessert by David Lebovitz, copyright © 2025. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Penguin Random House, LLC. Food photography by Ed Anderson.
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