Steve Jenkins favors several varieties produced by Wisconsin's smaller cheesemakers and recommends looking for the following examples at your local cheese store:

Bel Gioso: Their Provolone, Gorgonzola, Parmesan, and Asiago are wonderful.

Widmer: Look for their washed-rind cow's milk Brick cheese.

Park Family: Provolone is the one to try.

Auricchio: Provolone is again the choice.