Mary Ewing Mulligan offers this list of her favorite cognacs and defines a few labeling secrets.

The largest cognac producers are: Hennesey, Martel, Remy Martin and Courvosier. Mary recommends that you never buy a cognac younger than VSOP and then look for the phrase "Napoleon Style." "XO" means the cognac is at least 25 years old, "extra" puts it between 30 and 35 years.

A few small producers are also good names to try; Delamain, Hine, Pierre Ferrand and Brillat.

And which one does Mary prefer? Remy Martin XO

Check out the latest article on Mary Ewing Mulligan and Ed McCarthy - authors of Wine for Dummies in the February 1997 issue of Food and Wine magazine.