Sauces for Summer Grilling

Maple Lemon Glaze
Makes 2/3 cup

Here is my Yankee version of sweet-and-sour sauce. It is terrific brushed on grilled shrimp and salmon, and even better on sea scallops, especially if they are skewered along with pieces of slab bacon. There is no need to use fancy Grade A maple syrup for this glaze. In fact, it's best to use Grade B pure maple syrup; it is less refined and has a richer flavor. Store this glaze at room temperature, not in the refrigerator.

• 1 cup pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B

• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (2 lemons)

• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine the maple syrup and lemon juice in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. (If the syrup boils rapidly, it will foam and cook over.) Simmer until the glaze has reduced to 3/4 cup, about 15 minutes.

Season the glaze with salt and pepper. Let cool to room temperature, then transfer to a covered container and store at room temperature; do not refrigerate. The glaze keeps well for up to 3 weeks.

Cold Cucumber Sauce
Makes 2 cups

This is one of my favorite sauces for grilled seafood, especially swordfish. It is also terrific with salmon, striped bass, halibut, tautog, and other white-fleshed fish suitable for grilling.

Think of this recipe as a formula. The ratio of cucumber to the other ingredients is important, but from there you can adapt this sauce to match with different fish or even side dishes. For example, with a Latino or Caribbean dish you could substitute fresh lime juice for the lemon juice and add chiles and cilantro. This recipe uses half yogurt and half sour cream, but you could use any combination of the two. Or, for salmon, you might want to use all sour cream, with dill. You could also make a low-calorie sauce using all low-fat yogurt.

The first time you make the sauce, if you follow my guidelines but omit the jalapeño and use parsley and chives for the herbs, you will have a basic sauce. After that, you are on your own. The list of possible variations is extensive.

• 1-1/2 pounds cucumbers (2 large), peeled, halved lengthwise, and seeded

• Kosher or sea salt

• 1/4 cup minced red onion

• 1/2 cup whole-milk yogurt, drained of excess liquid

• 1/2 cup sour cream

• 2 to 3 tablespoons minced fresh herbs (dill, mint, cilantro, parsley, and/or chives)

• 2 teaspoons minced jalapeno chile (optional)

• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

1. Cut the cucumbers into 1/8-inch dice with a chef's knife, or pulse them in a food processor until chopped into 1/8-inch pieces (do not over-process). Place the cucumbers in a large stainless steel strainer set in the sink or over a bowl, sprinkle them with 1 teaspoon salt, and let them drain for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, place the onion in a small bowl, cover with cold water, and let stand for 30 minutes.

3. Transfer the cucumbers to a large bowl, squeezing the last bit of excess moisture from them with your hands before you place them in the bowl. Drain the onion thoroughly and add to the cucumbers. Add the yogurt, sour cream, herbs, and jalapeno, if using. Mix gently, and add the lemon juice. Season with black pepper, taste, and add more lemon or salt as you wish. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. The sauce keeps refrigerated for 2 days.

Wasabi Lime Vinaigrette
Makes about 2 1/2 cups

This tasty vinaigrette is terrific on tuna, albacore, bluefish, and mackerel (it is not intended for dressing salad). And it is very quick and easy to make.

• 1/3 cup wasabi powder

• 1/3 cup water

• 1/3 cup rice vinegar

• 1/3 cup fresh lime juice

• 2 teaspoons sugar

• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

• 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

• 4 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped

• 1-1/2 cups vegetable oil

Place the wasabi powder in a medium bowl, add the water, and whisk to a smooth paste. Add the rice vinegar, lime juice, sugar, and salt and whisk until well combined. Add the ginger and scallions. Whisk in the oil in a slow, steady stream. Transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate until ready to use. The vinaigrette keeps, refrigerated, for 1 month.