• Yield: Serves 6



November 3, 2007

Excerpted from Pork & Sons. by Stéphane Reynaud (Phaidon Press, 2007). Copyright 2007 by Stéphane Reynaud.


  • 6 slices of brined Boston butt, drained and patted dry (see Brining below)

  • 6 pieces of fresh pork belly

  • 3 onions

  • 6 small leeks

  • 6 Jerusalem artichokes

  • 3 parsnips, halved

  • 3 turnips or rutabagas, halved

  • 6 carrot tops

  • 6 turnip tops

  • 1 bouquet garni

  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

  • 2-inch piece of fresh ginger root, cut into thin batons

  • 1-1/2 teaspoons grated or finely chopped horseradish

  • Scant 1/2 cup heavy cream

  • 1 jar of cornichons (miniature French cucumber pickles)

  • Coarse salt

Put the meat, onions, and leeks in a flameproof casserole and add enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.

Add the Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, turnips, carrot tops, turnip tops, and bouquet garni and cook for a further 30 minutes.

Heat the oil in a small skillet, add the ginger and cook over high heat, stirring constantly, for a few minutes, until golden brown. Combine the horseradish and cream in a bowl. Place the cornichons in a serving bowl.

Place a slice of pork and a piece of belly side in each of six soup plates. Divide the vegetables among them and sprinkle with the fried ginger. Serve the coarse salt, cornichons, and horseradish cream separately.


The following is a recipe for brining your own meat. You can brine all cuts of pork with this. Pork chops take about 12 hours; an entire loin takes 4 days.

Put the cut of meat in a nonreactive container such as a glazed pottery crock, a plastic or stainless steel bowl, or a heavy plastic freezer bag. Fill the container with enough spring water to cover the meat then pour off the water and measure it. For every three quarts of spring water add 3/4 pound sea salt, 3/4 pound brown sugar, 1 tablespoon peppercorns and 2 bay leaves. Stir until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Cover the meat with the solution and refrigerate for at least 12 hours and up to 4 days. Drain and completely dry the meat before using.