The classic accents of briny olives and tart oranges balance the mellow sweetness of fennel when it is cooked until fork-tender.
Caponata is the great room-temperature mix of eggplant and other vegetables that is sometimes called an Italian ratatouille. But it differs greatly from its French cousin in one chief way; it is a member of an ancient classification of dishes called agro dolce -- those made with sweet-and-sour flavoring. Though most Americans are familiar only with the caponata marketed by Progresso in small cans, there are many versions of the caponata in Italy. Most are from Sicily ... and my favorites of all are from Pantelleria, the great caper-growing island off the west coast of Sicily. So it's no surprise that this recipe has a healthy dose of capers in it! It's a wonderful appetizer, served with crusty bread and, perhaps, other antipasto items.
In this recipe, Nicoise olives are marinated in flavorful rosemary oil with masses of rosemary leaves, a simple technique that imparts a wonderful flavor to the olives and seems to intensify their own. The rosemary is cooked in the oil, so it keeps its green color for several weeks. Packed into French canning jars, these olives look like they were homemade in Provence. They make a perfect instant hors d' oeuvre with chilled wine or cocktails.
When Céline Bénitah cooks this dish, she blanches the olives for a minute to get rid of the bitterness, a step that I never bother with. If you keep the pits in, just warn your guests in order to avoid any broken teeth! Céline also uses the marvelous Moroccan spice mixture ras el hanout, which includes, among thirty other spices, cinnamon, cumin, cardamom, cloves, and paprika. You can find it at Middle Eastern markets or through the Internet, or you can use equal amounts of the above spices or others that you like.
Don't have a clue what to fix for dinner tonight? This dish is always a great solution to that problem. The tomatoes and parsley are the only fresh ingredients you need; everything else is probably in your fridge or pantry. For a splurge, use Spanish tuna in olive oil; for a bargain, try Genova brand, also in olive oil but half the price.
Maybe it's taking things for granted, but Alexander the Great would have liked these olives. The seasonings are straight from his place and time - Greece at about 320 BC. Besides being classic finger food, these are a good foil for the cheese and tomatoes, coarse bread and cool wine. Since the olives keep about two weeks in a refrigerator and leftovers will be welcome, it is a generous recipe.
In the Mexican state of Veracruz, a local recipe calls for simmering fish in a rich sauce of garlic, tomatoes, capers, green olives, and chiles. This version uses grouper, but any firm white-fleshed fish will do.