Pescado Rodrigo is one of the most beloved dishes in Mexico City. I make it at least a couple of times a month. Fresh fish, seared until crispy then drizzled with a chunky citrus sauce, is the seafood to stuff into a corn tortilla for tacos. The recipe comes from the Bellinghausen, a classic old-school Mexico City restaurant, established in 1915 and cherished by many families, including ours. Its old hacienda style, complete with tiles and a working fountain, is so dignified and grandiose that my sisters and I used to dress to the nines to eat there on Sundays. The menu never changes, ever. And it doesn't need to.
This preparation lets the doves shine. You can prepare pigeons the same way, but cook them longer because of their larger size. A hot fire is important—it will cook the little birds quickly, charring the outside and leaving the breasts slightly pink. Try eating the wings and legs from the small birds- bones and all.