1. Whisk together the granulated sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a small bowl.
2. Divide the dough in half. On a lightly floured work surface, use your hands to roll each half into an 18-inch/45 cm rope and then cut each rope into 18 (1-inch/ 2.5 cm) pieces. Transfer the pieces to a rimmed baking sheet, sprinkle them with half of the sugar mixture, and toss to coat.
3. Generously coat 2 (9 × 5-inch/ 23 × 13 cm) loaf pans with cooking spray. Divide the dough pieces between the pans, sprinkling them with the remaining sugar mixture as you go. Put the loaf pans in large plastic bags or cover them loosely with plastic wrap, and let them rest until they’re softer than firm balloons, are supple, fill the pans, about 1 hour.
4. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C.
5. Bake the monkey breads until they’re browned and the sugar is bubbling, about 25 minutes. Let the breads cool in the pans on a rack for 20 minutes before unmolding. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store any leftovers in an airtight plastic bag for up to a couple of days at room temperature.
Makes 2 (12-inch/30 cm) loaves
1. Put the bread flour, sugar, salt, and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook.
Add the pâte fermentée, egg yolks, honey, water, and oil and mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are completely incorporated (i.e., you can’t see any flour) and the yeast has disappeared into the dough. Add a little extra water if this hasn’t happened in 3 minutes. Increase the speed to medium to medium-high and mix until the dough is smooth, pulls away from the sides of the bowl (and leaves the sides clean), has a bit of shine, and makes a slapping noise against the sides of the bowl, about 5 minutes.
Do the windowpane test to check to see if the gluten is fully developed. The dough will look smooth and feel slightly tacky.
2. Coat the inside of a large bowl with oil and transfer the dough to it. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour and cover the bowl with plastic wrap or put the whole bowl in a large plastic bag. Let stand at room temperature until the dough is puffy and supple, about 1 hour and 30 minutes.
3. Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Flatten slightly and divide it into 4 equal pieces (each weighing about 7 1/2 ounces/215 g). Working with one piece at a time (keep the rest covered with plastic), form a tight log roll. Then, with two hands, give the piece a few rolls on the floured surface so that it forms a thick rope about 18 inches/45 cm long. Repeat to make 4 ropes.
4. Leave 2 ropes loosely covered with plastic. Take the first 2 ropes and form a two-strand braid. Form an “X” in front of you with one rope going from the upper right to the lower left on the bottom, and the other on top, going from the upper left to the lower right on top. Fold the top right arm of the X down over the center so it’s now facing down toward you. Fold the bottom left arm of the X up over the center so it’s now where the top right arm used to be. Do the same with the top left arm and the bottom right arm. Keep building your braid in this fashion until you have no dough left to cross. Turn the braid on its side so that what was the base is now one end of the loaf and squeeze the small end pieces of dough firmly together and tuck them under the braid. Set the braided loaf on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and repeat the process with the remaining 2 ropes of dough to form a second loaf. Evenly space the loaves apart on the baking sheet.
5. Carefully brush the challahs with the beaten eggs, reserving whatever egg is left over for a second egg wash. Put the entire baking sheet in a large plastic bag or cover the challahs loosely with plastic wrap, and let them stand at room temperature until they have risen, are supple, and hold indentations when pressed lightly, about 1 hour.
6. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C.
7. Uncover the challahs and gently brush them again with the reserved egg. Bake the loaves until they’re mahogany colored and sound hollow when you tap on the bottom of the loaves, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Insert a thin knife in between the strands to make sure that the dough is firm—it should have the density of a well-baked cake.
8. Transfer the breads to a wire rack to cool completely, at least 1 hour. Store leftovers in a plastic bag at room temperature or freeze.
Makes about 1 1/4 cups (risen and deflated)/300 g
Pâte fermentée is an ingredient in many recipes in the lean and enriched doughs chapters. You need to make it eight to twenty-four hours before you bake your bread. This extra step extends fermentation time and allows you to achieve a light, flavorful loaf with less yeast. Pâte fermentée contains the ingredients of simple French bread dough—flour, water, yeast, and salt—so, in a pinch, you could bake and eat it. Unlike other types of pre-ferments, such as levain, pâte fermentée does not impart a sour flavor to the bread. Instead it adds depth of flavor and extends the shelf life of your bread. If you make bread often, you can save the trimmings from lean doughs to use in your pâte fermentée. More likely, if you are making a Rustic Batard, Traditional Challah, or any number of the breads in this book, you will mix a batch of the pâte fermentée the day before, then refrigerate it until you are ready to bake.
1. Put the water and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, then add the flour and salt. Mix on low speed for 2 minutes until combined into a shaggy dough. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.
2. Refrigerate the mixture for a minimum of 8 hours and a maximum of 24. (There is no need to return it to room temperature before using.)
3. If you’re measuring the pâte fermentée rather than weighing it, be sure to deflate it with a wooden spoon or with floured fingertips before measuring.
Reprinted from The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook. Copyright © 2015 by Jessamyn Waldman Rodriguez. Photos copyright © by Jennifer May and Evan Sung. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC.