This started out as a Mexican budin, a casserole so dense with tortillas, sour cream, and cheese that in the end it was simply too rich, even for me. But as I love the flavors of the various elements, I put them into these lighter corn crêpes and, if supper is very informal, I let each person fill his or her own. Otherwise, I fill them and heat them in a skillet or the oven. For a vegan version, use corn tortillas in place of the crêpes and nondairy cheeses.
Serve these crêpes with black beans, a dollop of sour cream, and something fresh, such as slivered jícama and cucumbers with lime and chile. An unoaked wine such as Domaine Chandon's sparkling wine or a slightly chilled Beaujolais would make a refreshing, informal match for these crêpes.
Note: Make the crêpe batter first so that it can rest while you cook the chard, heat the beans, and make the salsa. Then cook the crêpes and fill them.
The Chard Filling
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Excerpted from Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen by Deborah Madison (Broadway Books, New York, 2005). © 2005 by Deborah Madison. All rights reserved.
Deborah Madison is a chef, writer and cooking teacher. She is the founding chef of Greens Restaurant in San Francisco. She is the author of several books, including Seasonal Fruit Desserts from Orchard, Farm and Market, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone and Local Flavors, Cooking and Eating from America’s Farmers Markets. Her writing has appeared in publications such as Gourmet, Saveur, Orion and Culinate.com. She has received the M.F.K. Fisher Award, the IACP’s Julia Child Cookbook of the Year award, and three James Beard awards.