This is for the people who love the toppings of the salad more than the lettuce itself. I am her, she is me. Lettuce is great and all, but this baby focuses on all of the crunchies on top. She’s dressed in my beautiful Green Goddess Dressing with alllll the herbs, for a kiss of freshness in each bite. This is a salad that stores well for a day or two, so make a batch and keep it for an easy lunch.
I cannot begin to describe how delicious these are: toothsome from the bulgur, salty from the feta and fresh from all that parsley, whose innate bitterness brings the fritters into balance. They are, of course, inspired by that classic Middle Eastern salad tabbouleh and—just as in that dish—the parsley is not merely a herb offered up for a bit of additional flavor, it is used as a green leafy vegetable in its own right.
For my cookbook "Better Baking," I took inspiration from my American Chinese upbringing for sweets like almond cookies and coconut mochi, but I can eat only so many desserts and rely on this savory recipe almost daily. I learned it from an auntie in my church community on the far east side of Los Angeles, where many families made some version of this dish. It evolved from Taiwanese dan bing, where egg is cooked and rolled into a thin, chewy dough. Flour tortillas, readily available in Southern California during my childhood and now everywhere, are an approximation -- not necessarily a close one but an ideal one for busy cooks. This is the simplest version, the one that comes together under 5 minutes for a satisfying meal when there's no time to cook. The egg can be cooked with stir-fried scallions and the wrap stuffed with crispy wontons, shredded lettuce and more seasonings, such as hoisin, sesame seeds and sesame oil.
Potatoes, chiles and shrimp sit so well together in this effortless, comforting salad. Eat it just as it is, or serve it as a side salad if you like.