Welcome to Splendid Table Selects. This is where we pull together some of our favorite interviews -- from the past and present -- to showcase conversations that surprised us, illuminated something new in our world, or have proven to be especially useful in the kitchen. In this Selects, we talk with Michael Cimarusti, a chef considered to be the king of Southern California seafood for the last 20-plus years. He is a chef and seafood market proprietor who thinks deeply about fish; he is also willing to share some unusual observations for the home cook. Our contributor Russ Parsons and Chef Cimarusti got together in Los Angeles to talk about techniques for cooking different fish, supporting dock-to-dish sustainability, and the key elements to a perfect clam chowder.