Desserts

Cookies don't get simpler or more satisfying than sablés, the basic butter cookie of France. They are homey, simple cookies that are sometimes flavored not at all (the better to show off their wholesome all-butter goodness) and sometimes given a spot of flavor, subtle or bold. At old-fashioned Pâtisserie Lerch, M. Lerch, whose affection for cookies is evident, generously flavors his sables with lemon zest and coats their edges with sugar so they emerge from the oven with a touch of sparkle.

This is very rich and sweet, almost more of a pudding than a cake. It first appeared in the Fifties, but was still popular a decade later. My husband, who is not usually a dessert eater, said that it is "extremely good!".

While the blueberries are baking, prepare the ingredients for the topping, but do not stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until just before the berries come out of the oven. A standard or deep-dish 9-inch pie pan works well; an 8-inch square baking dish can also be used. Vanilla ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream is the perfect accompaniment. To reheat leftovers, put the cobbler in a 350-degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until heated through.

Ingredients

One year when I attempted a traditional Christmas cake, I did as required, at least to start off with. The requisite months before, I bought dried fruit, chopped and stirred and steeped the mixture in alcohol. When the time came to make the cake, I was so exhausted with seasonal demands I didn't have the energy left actually to make it. So now I have evolved an easier, process-leaner method. Well, when I say I have evolved it, this is no more than my take on an old boiled fruit cake.

This big half-moon-shaped turnover is bursting with chunks of apples, raisins and tiny pieces of citron. When you taste what candied citron does for the apple filling, you may want to try some in your next apple pie. High quality candied citron, the kind that comes in big chunks, always makes me think of a lemon that's been dipped in allspice and sugar. Even supermarket citron is good in this tart. Hill farmers make it in the Versilla area of northern Tuscany on January 6, the Epiphany, the Twelfth Day of Christmas, and in Italy, the Day of the Befana when everyone gets presents.

Ingredients

This delicious hybrid, the specialty of my dear friend Jean Turpen, is one of those desserts that American bakers love -- it is relatively easy, makes enough for a crowd, and is utterly irresistible. Baked in a jelly-roll pan, it's a cross between a cobbler, a pie, and a big cookie. The pie can be made with just about any seasonal fruit -- peaches, nectarines, and Italian purple plums are all excellent substitutes for the apples -- adjusting the amount of sugar as needed. A layer of crushed cornflakes on the bottom crust soaks up and thickens the fruit juices so the consistency is always perfect.

These simple truffles feature a hint of Crème de Cassis liqueur, to pick up the berry flavor in late bottled vintage Port wine. Make sure to finely chop the chocolate before you begin, or it may not completely melt when whisked with the cream. If there are lumps in your truffle mixture, set it over a slightly larger bowl of hot (not boiling) water and stir until melted.