Serves 1-2. 

Tejal Rao, critic at large for The New York Times, has fallen hard for luxuriously, long-cooked greens. Put away your predilection for bright green, still crisp, blanched vegetables, and give this recipe a shot. 

Any green can be substituted for the broccoli rabe, from chard to collards to mustard greens. Be sure to double the recipe to have more of these greens in the fridge, ready to go the next day. You can stir them into hot pasta with lemon zest, pile them on thick toasted bread with a smear of ricotta, tuck a spoonful or two under a fried egg, add it to a rice bowl with some smoked sardines, or just have it on the side with some beans.

INGREDIENTS 

  • 1 bunch broccoli rabe

  • 1/2 cup olive oil, plus more to finish

  • 1 teaspoon red chile flakes

  • 2 anchovies (optional)

  • 2 garlic cloves, sliced (optional)

  • Salt to taste

  • Parmigiano-Reggiano, to taste

DIRECTIONS

1. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and add the broccoli rabe. Simmer for a few minutes, then drain. When cool enough to handle, roughly chop the greens. 

2. In the same pot, over low heat, add the olive oil and chile flakes, as well as the anchovies and garlic if using them. Once the garlic is soft and the anchovies have disintegrated, add the greens, a splash of water, and season with salt. 

3. Cover the greens and simmer on low heat, stirring often until the stems are very tender about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and season with flaky salt, more olive oil if the greens aren't shimmering, and some grated cheese.