(Potage Aux Féves Fraîche)
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What a surprise it was to taste tomatoes this sugary, a vivid reminder that they are in fact berries, not vegetables.
In speaking of this most celebrated of Irish potato dishes, the musician Mick Bolger—whose Denver-based contemporary Celtic band is called Colcannon—notes that it has a "wonderful affinity" for corned beef and cabbage. And he confesses that he has also eaten it "with fillet mignon and port sauce; with rashers [bacon], tomatoes, and kidneys-in-their-jackets at 4 a.m.; and—God forgive me—wrapped in a tortilla, microwaved, and eaten, over the sink, with salsa." It is, in other words, a versatile creation. It is also one that exists in numerous variations, depending on the season, the region of the country, and of course personal taste. It is often made with just butter, milk, and kale, but the scholar P. W. Joyce defines "caulcannon" as "potatoes mashed with butter and milk, with chopped up cabbage and pot-herbs." Mary Ward, when she makes colcannon at her house in Nenagh, County Tipperary, starts with a trip to the kitchen garden, armed with a basket and a pair of shears. This is her recipe.
In his book Ratios: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking, food writer Michael Ruhlman reveals the cooking codes professional cooks use all the time. Here is Michael's formula for pie dough:
There are few sights as uplifting in the kitchen as a golden, bubbling grating coming out of the oven. It's strange to be saying this, but one of the reasons I love this particular gratin is that it isn't too creamy and rich. And the relative thinness of the wine and milk the potatoes and mushrooms are cooked in - relative to heavy cream, that is - is what allows you to cook this in such a hot oven and so quickly.
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Toss in a serving bowl with the lemon juice, top with the zest.
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