What a surprise it was to taste tomatoes this sugary, a vivid reminder that they are in fact berries, not vegetables. Drenched with butter, starched up with bread, these are the sweetest, swooniest 'maters you will ever taste. Although it might be possible to make a similar stew with fresh tomatoes, Hap Townes's version depends on the fall-apart pulpiness of the canned variety.

• 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, including juice
• 8 slices white bread, well toasted
• 8 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup sugar

1. Place tomatoes in a large saucepan.

2. Tear toast into about 4 pieces per slice; add to tomatoes.

3. Add butter and sugar.

4. Simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve warm.