The ground meat for this kebab—I usually buy shoulder of lamb—should have a good amount of fat so that it remains moist and juicy. Most of it will melt away in the heat of the grill. You will need skewers with a thick, wide blade to hold the meat and prevent it from rolling around. Alternatively, it is easier and equally good to shape the meat into burgers. Serve them with Arab flat breads and accompany them with a salad and a choice of mezze.
Excerpted from Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, & Lebanon by Claudia Roden (Alfred A. Knopf, 2007). Copyright 2007 by Claudia Roden.
"Our memory takes us out of time, especially in regard to smell and taste in food," says Mary Karr, author of The Art of Memoir.