Throughout Jalisco, this refreshing drink is served in large, wide-mouthed clay bowls, called cazuelas. Citrus wedges are eaten or squeezed into the drink. Partakers pop chunks of watermelon and fresh pineapple into their mouths and sip the tequila-laced libation through a straw.
Cazuelas inspired this party punch. Present it in an agua fresca jar to show off the colorful fruits and ladle it into long-stemmed jumbo margarita glasses (alternatives for clay bowls) with some ice. A guest once called this drink "the quintessential finger bowl"; I call it the "the ultimate fruit cocktail." Make sure that guests get plenty of the spiked watermelon and pineapple.
Place pineapple chunks in a wide-mouthed glass jar. Add tequilas, juices, and sliced oranges. Chill overnight. Add watermelon, lemons, limes, grapefruit, and star fruit and chill several more hours, stirring occasionally. Add Squirt immediately before serving.
The flavor of this punch improves with age. It keeps for several days in the refrigerator; watermelon will lose its texture, and should be stored separately (if there's any punch left!). Lemons, limes, and grapefruit become bitter when left in the punch too long.
Excerpt from ¡Viva Tequila!: Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures by Lucinda Hutson (Copyright © 1995 and 2013 by Lucinda Hutson) used by permission of the University of Texas Press. For more information visit www.utexaspress.com.
Darra Goldstein is editor in chief of The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, an 888-page reference guide to all things sweet. "The book is really a compendium of human desires, a cultural history of desire for things that are sweet and what it has caused in the world, in both the realm of pleasure and also of pain," she says.