Hearty meat dishes, rich stews and braises call for hefty red wines that will stand up to the robust flavors of wintertime fare. Josh Wesson likes these moderately priced bottles:

Argentina: Ben Marco, Dominio del Plata is rich, full bodied, almost chewy. About $20.

France: Chateau Combelle, St. Chainan is spicy and sweet, very big and rich, but low in tannins. An altogether friendly and flexible wine.

Spain: Bodegas Casa de la Ermita is a real mouthful. Silky and rich with "jammy," plum flavors and a scent of cherry pie and campfire smoke. About $12.