Cheese expert Steve Jenkins, author of Cheese Primer (Workman Publishing, 1996), calls these latest artisan cheese finds "adult candy."

  • Smoky Blue from Oregon's Rogue Creamery: This raw cow's milk blue cheese is smoked over hazelnut shells. It's soft and melting in the mouth.

  • Roncal from Navarre or Zidiazabal from Spain's Basque Country: Skip the Manchego and go for these more primitive and rustic cheeses.

  • St. George from the Azores: A wonderfully sharp cow's milk cheese that's reasonably priced and excellent for grating.