Fairway Market's Steve Jenkins, author of Steve Jenkins' Cheese Primer, says forget the cookies and leave a plate of cheese for Santa this year. Here are some picks (and sips to pair with them) that Santa is sure to love:

  • TĂȘte de Moine: a raw cow's milk Swiss that fits onto the girolle device that turns out thin ruffles of cheese. Pair with a good bourbon or Scotch.

  • Vacherin Mont d'Or (Switzerland) and Vacherin du Haut-Doubs (France): very soft, washed rind cow's milk cheese. Sip a Pinot Noir or Gewurztraminer.

  • Smokey Blue from Oregon's Rogue Creamery: nibble with a good whiskey or single malt Scotch.