Joshua Wesson of Best Cellars sings the praises of Grüner Veltliner, the centerpiece of Austria's wine industry. This lovely white has achieved cult status of late, thanks to a tasting by top-gun sommeliers that put it up against renowned Chardonnays. The Gru-Vee (the hip name for those in the know) came out on top and has stayed there.

Imagine a cross between a good Pinot Grigio and a Mosel Riesling and you get the idea about Gru-Vee. The flavor and texture is all its own: dry, mouthwatering, minerally, with distinct spice, herbs and an array of citrus fruits all cloaked in acidity. A versatile wine with the complexity of Chardonnay without the wood.

Keep an eye out for these picks from Josh:

• Loimer Lois Austria Veltliner: easy drinking, lemon-lime, tangy acidity. About $12 to $13.

• Schmelz Steinwand Wachau Federspiel: stone fruit, spiced apple, pineapple, papaya, an element of white pepper. About $20.

• Hirsch Lamm Kamptal: a kiss of sweetness with peach, apricot, baked apple, some earthiness. A magical unwooded white for about $30. If you find it, grab it.