Josh Wesson of Best Cellars has packed away the hearty winter reds for new spring whites from France:

Kuentz-Bas - Sylvaner Tradition: from Alsace, a white with scents of peach and apricot. About $13.

Bellevue La Foret: from the Côte Frontonnais, a rosé with the same style and richness of a Bordeaux. About $11.

Domaine du Pavillon Gamay: a lighthearted red from the Loire. About $11.