Josh Wesson calls Gruner Veltliner the king of Austrian wines, and a wine waiting to happen. High in acid, a bit lower in alcohol, and with white pepper flavors this is one to pour with smoked fish, raw shellfish, and simple fin fishes. Here is a stepladder of these wines to taste.
Introductory level: Loimer-Lois in its sexy, new-wave green bottle gets you started. About $12.
Mid-level: For an extra three dollars, you get a little more flavor intensity with Salomon-Hak. About $15.
Grand finale: Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen is a truly delicious wine, although not a great buy. About $21.
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