Although it's not far from New Orleans, the highway that takes you to Mosca's also takes you deep into the swamps at the back of beyond. You're guaranteed to think you're lost, and when you finally pull into the dimly lit gravel parking lot you might hesitate to go inside. The place is old and looks dark and sinister. Rumor says for many years it was the hangout of the area's Mafioso. But step out of your car and the scent of garlic pulls you through the door. Once you're seated, get set for some of the best Italian-American food in the country. The menu warns that all dishes take 50 minutes to cook (and they're heavy on the garlic), so settle in, relax, and know the wait will be worth it.