It's all about beef and smoke at this central Texas barbecue joint. Jane says the brisket - smoked long and slow and seasoned with nothing but salt and pepper and bastings of flavorful drippings - is the best she's ever had. It's strictly utilitarian here, nothing fancy. There are no plates and no sides. Your order is simply piled on a cafeteria tray lined with pink butcher paper and accompanied by slices of squishy white bread for mopping up the delicious juices and a little cup of natural beef drippings. The Sterns warn against ordering a lean cut of brisket. It's dry and you'll be disappointed. Go for the fattier, well marbled cut. Michael says it's barbecue heaven.