The Sterns have discovered that not all of the great ice cream in America is in New England. Some truly superior, even aristocratic, ice cream can be had on the opposite coast at Ici in Berkeley, California. It's not a fancy place and there's usually a line out the door, but when you finally reach the counter you can sample any and all the flavors before you decide. And what luscious, vivid flavors they offer: mocha salted almond, sesame praline, molasses gingersnap, Earl Grey and cookies, brandied cherry, Santa Rosa plum, peach habanero sorbet! Then there's the surprise of a dab of chocolate at the bottom of the cone. It's truly ice cream worth the trip.