2. In a large skillet or wok, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over high heat. Add half of the garlic and stir for 1 minute. Add half of the kale and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until it turns bright green. Transfer to a large bowl and repeat with the rest of the oil, garlic, and kale. Taste the kale; if it doesn't seem tender enough, replace all the kale in the skillet, add 3 to 4 tablespoons water, cover, and steam for a few minutes. (The kale can be prepared ahead and reheated right before serving.)
Chef Sean Brock, author of Heritage, grew up in a town where seed saving was a way of life. "You just saved these seeds not because you were poor, but because you really loved the flavor of a particular tomato or a particular bean," he says.