Variations on this simple relish/salad turn up throughout Southeast Asia. The purpose is to give you a bite of cool, crisp, crunch to counterpoint spicy hot meat.

• 2 Kirby (pickling) cucumbers, or 1 medium-size cucumber, cut in half lengthwise and seeded (It isn't necessary to seed Kirby cucumbers)
• 1 shallot, minced (2 to 3 tablespoons), or 1 scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and minced
• 1 small hot red chile, such as a bird or cayenne pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper

Cut the cucumber(s) into 1/4-inch dice. Place the cucumber(s), shallot, chile, rice vinegar, and sugar in a mixing bowl and toss gently to mix. Season with salt and pepper to taste. The relish can be made up to 2 hours ahead.