This preparation lets the doves shine. You can prepare pigeons the same way, but cook them longer because of their larger size. A hot fire is important—it will cook the little birds quickly, charring the outside and leaving the breasts slightly pink. Try eating the wings and legs from the small birds- bones and all.

• 12 to 16 whole doves, quail, or snipe, plucked and gutted
• About 1/4 cup olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1. In a large bowl, toss the doves with enough olive oil to coat. Season very well with salt and pepper and set aside for up to 1 hour at room temperature.
• 2. Meanwhile, build a very hot fire and let it burn down to white coals, or set a gas grill on high heat. Clean the grill grate well and brush it with olive oil.
• 3. Grill the doves, breast side down, for about 5 minutes, then flip and grill the opposite sides for another 5 minutes, or until the breasts are still firm but pink at the bone. Remove from heat and let rest for about 5 minutes. Serve with rice and greens.