New potatoes and fingerlings roasted in salt have an extraordinarily pure flavor and creamy interior. Place the dish of potatoes buried in salt on the table (on a trivet) with a serving spoon, allowing guests to dig the potatoes themselves; pass little bowls of unsalted butter or crème Fraïche, cracked coriander seeds, and snipped fresh chives on the side for guest to dress them as they like. This is also a great way to dress simple boiled potatoes. Leftover cracked coriander makes a surprising, instant seasoning for all sorts of dishes.

• Kosher salt
• 1 1/2 pounds new potatoes such as Yellow Finns, Bintje or fingerlings (no larger than 2-inches in diameter
• About 1 cup crème fraïche
• 3 or 4 tablespoons cracked coriander seeds (see below)
• 3 or 4 tablespoons snipped fresh chives (optional)
• 1 stick unsalted butter (optional)

Potatoes:

Preheat the oven to 400 F.

Spread a 1/2 inch-thick layer of kosher salt in a large, 2- or 3-inch deep ovenproof pan or dish.

Nestle the potatoes in the salt, spaced about 1/2 inch apart.

Cover completely with salt.

Bake until tender, about 35 to 40 minutes. To test for doneness, dig out one of the potatoes and press; it should split open easily.

Let the dish cool 5 minutes before serving.

Place little bowls of unsalted butter, crème fraïche, cracked coriander seeds and snipped chives on a platter or tray to make them easy to pass.

Cracked, Toasted Coriander Seed:

Scatter the coriander seed in a small heavy skillet. Toast over moderately low heat, shaking the pan frequently until you just get a whiff of their fragrance.

Transfer to a mortar and crush the seeds coarsely with a pestle. Or, place a sheet of paper towel on the work surface and pour the seeds onto it. Use the side of a chef's knife or the flat bottom of a heavy glass to press down on the spices to crush them. Carefully lift the sides of the towel and tilt the crushed spices into a small bowl. Alternatively, coarsely grind them in a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder for a less rustic effect.