This is a permutation of the vast universe of simply dressed, grated, or julienned raw vegetable salads that includes France's grated carrot and celery root salads and the endless variety of shredded cabbage slaws in America. They all share a purity and directness of flavor, with a pleasingly rustic, elemental look.

• 1 small celery root (about 12 ounces)
• 4 medium parsnips (8 ounces)
• 2 parsley roots (8 ounces)
• 1 teaspoon finely slivered Meyer lemon, lemon, or orange zest
• 8 ounces yellow or red beets

Fragrant Hazelnut Vinaigrette:

• 2 tablespoons cider vinegar (preferably organic), or to taste
• Kosher salt to taste
• Pinch of sugar
• 2-1/2 tablespoons roasted hazelnut or walnut oil, or fruity extra virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon warm water
• Freshly ground black pepper

1. Slice and combine the vegetables. Peel the celery root, parsnips, and parsley root. Use a mandoline or Benriner or a box grater to julienne or coarsely grate them. Place in a large bowl and toss with the zest. Peel and grate the beets; place in a separate bowl.

2. Dress the vegetables.In a small bowl, combine the cider vinegar, salt, and sugar. Whisk in the nut oil and water. Toss the root vegetables and the beets separately with some of the dressing and salt and pepper to taste; add additional vinegar if necessary.

3. Add the beets or other embellishments. Nestle the beets in a mound slightly off center in the root vegetable slaw. Serve at once.