Caramelized and concentrated into slightly crisp nuggets, roasting gives cauliflower a new personality. Granted, it loses its pearly white complexion, but the payback is in the flavor.

This vegetable roast reheats well, becomes a salad when served at room temperature and dressed with lemon and olives, and several pieces top a puréed cauliflower soup.

Ingredients

• 1 large cauliflower and its greens, broken into florets and sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 2 medium onions, cut into thin slivers
• 2 large cloves garlic, thin sliced
• 6 fresh sage leaves
• 1 3-inch branch fresh rosemary
• 2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• Salt and fresh-ground black pepper to taste

1. Preheat oven to 425 degree F.

2. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients.

3. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.

4. Spread them out on a large shallow roasting pan (a half-sheet pan is ideal).

5. Roast the cauliflower, turning occasionally, 45 minutes to an hour, or until cauliflower is tender when pierced and golden brown.