Bring vinegar, sugar, cumin, and salt to a boil in a 2-quart non-reactive heavy saucepan, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Add onions and simmer, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes, then transfer to a bowl and cool. Stir in cilantro. Pickled onions can be made 1 week ahead and chilled, covered.
Copyright July 2003, Gourmet magazine. Printed with permission.
New York chef Melissa Daka, owner of Eolo and Pastai, says wines from Sicily's Mount Etna are "intense just like the fireworks of the lava that spits out of the volcano."