Feel free to put your imagination to work on this biriyani. Substitute any vegetables you like, just remember to roast the hard ones with the hard ones and the tender with the tender. The vegetables can be roasted a day ahead and the biriyani then assembled and baked the day of the feast. In fact, roasting the vegetables a day in advance only makes the dish better.
Cook to Cook: If you have candied ginger at hand, chop up a tablespoon or two and add it to the garnishes at the end.
Wine: Both red and white work with this dish. Try a Pinot Gris or a Pinot Noir from New Zealand.
2. Make the Ginger-Garlic-Cashew Puree. While the vegetables are roasting, make the puree by combining all the ingredients, except the canola oil, in a food processor and pureeing them to a paste. When the puree is nicely blended, with the motor running, pour in the oil in a thin stream until completely combined.
3. Remove from the vegetables from the oven and divide the Ginger-Garlic-Cashew puree equally between the pans and toss it gently but thoroughly with the vegetables on the sheet pan. Return the pans to the oven and roast another 10 - 15 minutes until the vegetables are nicely browned, but the puree has not burned. If the puree seems to be burning, add a little water to the pan, turning the vegetables as you go. The onions and peppers will cook faster than the yams and Brussels sprouts, so pull then when they are individually done. Scrape everything into a large bowl and repeat until all the vegetables are roasted. Set aside. The vegetables can be made a day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator.
4. Make the rice.The day the biriyani is to be served, rinse the rice in several changes of water until the water is clear. Then soak the rice in enough water to cover (with 1 tablespoon salt added) for 30 minutes to 6 hours. Drain.
5. Fill a 6-quart pot two-thirds full of water. Add 3 tablespoons of salt and bring the water to a boil. Drop in the rice and cook it like pasta, about 5 minutes, or until it’s tender but with a slight firmness. Drain in a sieve immediately and spread the rice out on a towel or cookie sheet so it cools quickly.
6. Lightly toast the saffron for 30 seconds to 1 minute in a small, dry saucepan over medium heat. Immediately add the milk. Pull the pan from the heat and set aside to steep for a minimum of 20 minutes.
7. Assemble the biriyani. Take the vegetables out of the refrigerator if they have been made ahead and preheat the oven to 325ºF. You’re are going to top the vegetables with a dome of rice in a baking dish, tent it with foil and bake until it’s heated through.
8. Butter the inside of a shallow 3- to 3 1/2-quart baking dish. Mound the vegetables in the center and cover it with the rice, patting it with your fingers, (dip them in water if the rice sticks to them) into a smooth dome. Tuck the cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods and cloves randomly into the rice and drizzle the entire dome with the saffron or turmeric milk, trying to cover as much of the surface as you can.
9. Tent foil over the dome so that it does not touch the rice. Seal it around the edges of the dish, then bake the biriyani for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until it is hot at its center.
10. Make the garnishes: While the biriyani bakes, prepare several layers of paper towel on a baking sheet next to the stove. In a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat, warm the oil and butter and fry the onions until crisp. Lift them out with a slotted spoon, spread on the paper towels and sprinkle with salt. In the same oil, fry the raisins until they puff, and scoop them out onto the towels. Finally, briefly fry the nuts until golden then cool them on the towels. You are done!
To serve the biriyani, remove it from the oven and lift off the foil. Remove the whole spices, if desired, and scatter the garnishes over the top. Serve it hot, making sure each helping has some of the garnishes.
Copyright 2011 by Lynne Rossetto Kasper. From A Spice Scented Thanksgiving Menu.
Chef Sean Brock, author of Heritage, grew up in a town where seed saving was a way of life. "You just saved these seeds not because you were poor, but because you really loved the flavor of a particular tomato or a particular bean," he says.