Folie of Fall Fruits

This is a fall version of the French Vieux Garcon, or Bachelor's Brandied Fruit. For that classic preparation, layers of fruit, starting in June with cherries, are put into a crock, masked with sugar, and then covered with brandy or other spirits. As other fruits ripen throughout the summer, they are added to the crock, along with more sugar and brandy, and so on throughout the fall. Then, throughout the winter, the brandied fruits are eaten. I have never learned whether the name comes from the idea that Vieux Garcon is easy enough for a bachelor to make, or because it contains enough brandy for a lonely bachelor to drown his sorrows.

This version uses grapes, apples, and pears of different colors and varieties. Persimmons and berries could also be used.

Ingredients

4 firm, slightly underripe pears, such as Bosc or Red Bartlett
2 firm apples, such as Granny Smith or Gala
1 small bunch purple grapes (about 1/3 pound)
1 small bunch green or rose grapes (about 1/3 pound)
3 cups brandy
3 cups granulated sugar

Peel and core the pears and apples, then cut them lengthwise into slices 1 inch thick. Stem the grapes, discarding any grapes that are bruised or damaged.

Instructions

Combine the brandy and the sugar in a stainless-steel or other nonreactive pan large enough to hold all the fruits eventually. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the sliced fruits and grapes and simmer another 2 to 3 minutes. The fruits will change color slightly and will offer resistance when pricked with the tines of a fork.

Using a slotted utensil, lightly pack the fruits into hot, dry, sterilized jars with lids. Pour in the hot syrup to cover the fruits completely. At first the fruits will float toward the top, but as they eventually absorb the sugar they will sink to the bottom. Cover with the lids.

Store in a cool, dark place for a least 4 weeks to allow the flavors to develop. Open the lids every few days for a moment to allow any fermenting gases to escape. The fruits will keep 4 months or more in a cool, dark place or they may be refrigerated.

From The Glass Pantry: Preserving Seasonal Flavors, by Kathryn Kleinman.

Categories:

Desserts