This sauce is a sharper version of pevra, a peppery bread sauce that is one of the four traditional condiments that accompany bollito misto, the grand array of boiled meats served throughout Italy's northern regions. Spiked with young balsamico, it is a perfect match to boiled chicken, my comfort dish for a cold evening. In order to avoid overcooking the breast before the legs are done, water is added to the level of the top of the thigh joint, leaving the breast exposed. When the legs are tender the chicken is inverted to finish the cooking of the breast. The flavorful broth that results is used to moisten the sauce.

Ingredients

• 1 very fresh chicken, about 4 pounds
• 1 medium carrot
• 1 celery stalk
• 1 small yellow onion
• Bouquet of fresh thyme and flat-leaf parsley
• Salt

Vinegar Sauce:

• 2 cups (4 ounces) fresh sourdough bread crumbs
• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
• 2 1/2 cups cooking liquid from the chicken
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 5 teaspoons young condimento balsamico

1. Place the chicken on a work surface breast side up with the legs toward you. Turn the wing tips over the top of the breast and secure them against the underside of the bird.

2. Using both hands, tension a piece of kitchen twine, slide it under the front of the cavity, and tie a loose knot around the ends of the drumsticks.

3. Place the chicken backside down in a deep pan that holds it comfortably with several inches of space all around. Add the vegetables and herbs and only enough water to reach the top of the drumstick, leaving most of the breast exposed.

4. Lightly salt the water, bring to a boil, skim away the froth that rises to the surface, then reduce it immediately to a bare simmer.

5. Cook the chicken for 30 to 35 minutes. Test the thigh and legs for tenderness with the tip of a knife. Carefully invert the chicken breast side down. Simmer the chicken for an additional 15 minutes, then turn the chicken backside down again, turn off the heat, and cover the pot.

6. Combine the bread crumbs with the melted butter in a pie pan and toast them to golden brown in a moderate oven. Add the chicken cooking liquid to the toasted bread.

7. Pass the bread and broth through the finest sieve of the food mill. If the sauce is coarse, pass it again until you achieve a smooth consistency.

8. Stir in the pepper, salt, and balsamico. Keep warm over warm water.

9. Cut the chicken into serving pieces and remove its skin. Divide the chicken among 4 plates and nap each piece with the vinegar sauce. Serve with buttered peas or carrots.